Laundry is one of the easiest places to trim your energy bill, because most of the cost comes from just two things: heating wash water and running the dryer. Switch to cold washes, dry smarter and fix a few habits, and a typical household can cut its laundry energy cost by roughly half — often $100 or more a year, depending on your machines and rates.
Quick answer: the laundry tips that save the most
| Tip | Why it works | Rough yearly saving* |
|---|---|---|
| Wash in cold instead of hot | Heating water is about 90% of a washer’s energy use | $60–$120 (electric water heater) |
| Air-dry half your loads | Skips the most power-hungry laundry appliance | About $80 |
| Run full washer loads | A washer uses about the same energy whatever the load size | Varies — fewer loads overall |
| Clean the lint filter every load | Better airflow means shorter drying times | Small, but free (and safer) |
| Use the moisture sensor, not timed dry | Stops the dryer when clothes are dry | Varies by habit |
| Upgrade to a heat pump dryer (when replacing) | Uses around 70% less energy than a conventional dryer | About $110 |
*Estimates assume about 300 loads a year and electricity at around 18¢ per kWh. Your numbers will differ — see the math below.
Where your laundry money actually goes
Before changing habits, it helps to know what costs the most.
According to ENERGY STAR, water heating consumes about 90% of the energy it takes to run a clothes washer. The motor that spins the drum uses comparatively little. In other words, the washer itself is cheap to run — it’s the hot water you feed it that costs money.
The dryer is the other big one. ENERGY STAR notes that about 80% of American homes have a clothes dryer, and a conventional electric dryer is one of the bigger electricity users in many homes.
For the math in this guide we use about 18¢ per kWh, close to the latest U.S. average residential electricity price reported by the U.S. Energy Information Administration (EIA) for 2026. Check your own bill — rates vary a lot by state.
Washer tips: stop paying to heat water
1. Wash in cold water (the single biggest win)
ENERGY STAR says switching from hot to warm can cut a washer’s energy use in half, and using the cold cycle reduces it even more. Modern detergents are formulated to work in cold water, and for everyday loads most clothes come out just as clean.
Here’s a rough estimate of what hot water costs if you have an electric water heater. Heating one gallon of water from about 55°F to 120°F (13°C to 49°C) takes roughly 0.16 kWh.
- Hot wash (assume ~14 gallons of hot water): 14 × 0.16 kWh = 2.2 kWh × $0.18 = about $0.40 per load
- Warm wash (assume ~7 gallons of hot water mixed with cold): 7 × 0.16 kWh = 1.1 kWh × $0.18 = about $0.20 per load
- Cold wash: close to $0 in water heating
Over 300 loads a year — the number ENERGY STAR gives for an average American family — that’s roughly $120 a year for all-hot washing, $60 for all-warm and almost nothing for cold. Actual hot-water use varies a lot by machine and cycle, so treat these as ballpark figures.
If you heat water with natural gas, the savings in dollars are usually smaller, but you still cut your gas use. And if your water heater is set higher than needed, you’re paying extra on every hot load — see our guide to the best water heater temperature setting.
When to still use warm or hot: heavily soiled work clothes, cloth diapers, or bedding and towels during an illness. Save the hot cycle for those, not for everyday T-shirts.
2. Run full loads
ENERGY STAR points out that, unlike dryers, clothes washers use about the same amount of energy regardless of the size of the load. Two half loads cost about twice as much as one full load. Wait until you have a full drum — just don’t overstuff it so tightly that clothes can’t move.
3. Skip the sanitary and extra-hot cycles
ENERGY STAR specifically advises avoiding the sanitary cycle for routine washing. These cycles heat water to very high temperatures and can use a lot of extra energy. Keep them for when you truly need them.
4. Use the highest safe spin speed
A faster final spin pulls more water out of your clothes, so they typically need less time in the dryer. Spinning uses a little electricity; drying uses a lot more. For most cottons, a high spin is a cheap way to shorten drying time. Use a gentler spin for delicates.
5. Pick the right washer when you replace yours
ENERGY STAR certified clothes washers use about 20% less energy and about 30% less water than regular washers — a full-size certified model uses about 14 gallons per load versus 20 gallons for a standard machine. ENERGY STAR estimates certified models can save about $530 in energy costs over the product’s lifetime.
Design matters too. According to ENERGY STAR, certified front-load washers use about 50% less energy and water than a top-load agitator washer, and are still about 25% more efficient than a top-load impeller model. Don’t replace a working washer just for this, but factor it in when yours wears out.
Dryer tips: dry smarter, not longer
6. Air-dry when you can
The cheapest dryer is a clothesline or a drying rack. ENERGY STAR notes that air-drying saves energy and also helps clothes last longer.
Let’s estimate. A typical full-size electric dryer uses roughly 2 to 4 kWh per load, depending on the load and settings. Using 3 kWh:
- 3 kWh × $0.18 = about $0.54 per load
- 300 loads × $0.54 = about $162 a year
- Air-dry half your loads: save about $80 a year
We break this down in more detail in our dryer vs line drying savings guide, including indoor racks for apartments and winter.
7. Clean the lint filter after every load
ENERGY STAR recommends cleaning the lint filter after every load to improve air circulation and efficiency — and notes it’s also an important safety measure. If you use dryer sheets, they can leave a film on the screen; ENERGY STAR suggests scrubbing the filter with a toothbrush about once a month.
Also check the vent hose and outside vent flap now and then. A crushed or clogged vent makes the dryer run longer and hotter.
8. Use the moisture sensor, not timed dry
Many dryers have an automatic or “sensor dry” setting. ENERGY STAR certified dryers use automatic termination to detect when clothes are dry and shut off. A timed cycle, by contrast, keeps running whether your clothes are dry or not. Set it to “normal dry” or “less dry” rather than “very dry” for most loads.
9. Don’t dry tiny loads
Dryers behave differently from washers here. ENERGY STAR gives a striking example: drying a single towel for 30 minutes costs about as much as drying a full load for the same time. Batch your drying so each cycle does real work — but don’t overload it, because clothes need room to tumble.
10. Dry loads back to back and sort by fabric
Running loads one after another typically takes advantage of the heat already in the drum. Sorting helps too: heavy towels and jeans take much longer than light synthetics, so drying them separately avoids over-drying the light items while the heavy ones finish.
11. Consider a heat pump dryer when it’s time to replace
ENERGY STAR says certified heat pump dryers use around 70% less energy than conventional dryers. Using our estimate above:
- Conventional: about $162 a year
- Heat pump (70% less): about $162 × 0.3 = roughly $49 a year
- Difference: about $110 a year
Heat pump dryers cost more up front and cycles can take longer. They don’t need an outside vent, which makes them handy for apartments and closets — but they do produce water that must drain or be emptied from a tank after each load. A standard ENERGY STAR electric dryer is a smaller step up, saving about $210 over its lifetime, according to ENERGY STAR. Ask your utility whether it offers appliance rebates before you buy.
Timing: when you do laundry can matter too
If your utility uses time-of-use rates, electricity can cost noticeably more in the late afternoon and evening peak. Shifting laundry — especially drying — to mornings, late evenings or weekends can lower the price you pay per kWh without changing how much energy you use. Learn how these plans work in our guide to time-of-use electricity rates.
If you’re on a flat rate, timing won’t change your bill, so focus on the cold-wash and drying tips instead.
Putting it together: a sample household
Here’s how the savings could add up for a family doing 300 loads a year with an electric water heater and electric dryer, at about 18¢/kWh:
| Habit change | Before | After | Estimated saving |
|---|---|---|---|
| Warm washes → cold washes | ~$60/yr | ~$0/yr | ~$60 |
| Machine-dry everything → air-dry half | ~$162/yr | ~$81/yr | ~$81 |
| Total | ~$222/yr | ~$81/yr | ~$141/yr |
That’s without buying anything. Results vary with your machines, climate, water heater type and electricity rates, so use your own bill to fine-tune the numbers.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does washing in cold water really get clothes clean?
For most everyday loads, yes. Modern detergents are designed for cold water. Use warm or hot for heavily soiled items, greasy stains or when you need to sanitize bedding and towels.
How much does it cost to run a washing machine?
The washer’s motor uses relatively little electricity; most of the cost is heating the water. With an electric water heater, a hot wash might cost around $0.40 and a warm wash around $0.20 at 18¢ per kWh, while a cold wash costs only a few cents. Your machine and rates will change these figures.
Is it cheaper to do laundry at night?
Only if you’re on a time-of-use or similar plan where off-peak electricity is cheaper. On a flat rate, the cost per kWh is the same at any hour.
Do dryer balls or dryer sheets save energy?
Dryer sheets don’t save energy, and they can leave a film on the lint filter that needs scrubbing off. We haven’t found strong, independent evidence on how much dryer balls save, so we don’t count on them. What clearly helps is a clean lint filter, a clear vent, the moisture sensor and not over-drying.
Should I replace my old washer or dryer to save money?
Usually not while it still works well, because the savings take years to pay back the purchase price. When it’s time to replace, choose an ENERGY STAR model — a front-load washer and, if it fits your budget and space, a heat pump dryer.
The bottom line
The biggest laundry savings are free: wash in cold, run full loads and air-dry when you can. Add a clean lint filter and the moisture sensor, and you’ll shorten every drying cycle. For a typical family with electric appliances, that can mean well over $100 a year back in your pocket. Save upgrades like a front-load washer or heat pump dryer for when your current machines wear out — and keep an eye on your bill to see the difference.
Figures in this guide are estimates based on typical US prices at the time of writing. Savings vary by home, climate and utility rates — check your own bill before making a purchase.
Written by The Daily Economy editorial team with AI assistance and checked against the sources above. Read our editorial policy.